Shark Cage Diving

The first time we went to South African (two weeks after we got married to meet N's extended family), N and his brothers wanted to go Great White Shark Cage Diving. I thought it sounded cool, but none of the girls were going, it was expensive (~$150) and frankly I chickened out. 

Last shot of the day!

They came back with incredible stories and almost no pictures. I completely regretted no going and promptly added it to my bucket list. N always said that if and when we went back I would have to go. So when his sister announced that she was getting married in South Africa this year, the plans were set in motion.

Kleinbaai Harbour about 20 minutes drive from Hermanus

It felt like we had hardly fallen asleep and we were up again, although on the eight-hour time difference it felt like jet lag was finally on our side. We drove about twenty minutes from the Hermanus Backpackers to where the boats launch from Kleinbaai Harbour. My heart was in my throat just looking out at the sun rising over the waves and imagining the magnificent beasts I was about to see in the water.

It was a slow morning waiting for everyone to arrive, which only added to my anxiety. We had a strong South African instant coffee and a small breakfast, which later felt like a mistake. Then our leathery skinned guide gave us a bit of information. Great whites were obviously his life’s passion. He made me feel like they were no more fearsome than a kitten and that they are entirely essential to the ecosystem.

Disclaimer:

Cage Diving is controversial—I knew this before we went. We found out when we stayed with N’s aunt in Cape Town, that a close friend of his cousin’s had been killed by a Great White while spearfishing a few years earlier.

I am not an expert on this subject, by any means. I would encourage anyone interested in doing this to do their own research and form their own opinions. Do not take my word for it. I have been wrong before and will be again. That said, I do consider myself a conscientious consumer. I refuse to see animals that are being ill-treated, drugged, kept in small cages. I have little respect for people who think that is acceptable or fun to participate in these things because it’s what everyone does i.e. petting drugged tiger cubs in Thailand. It is not okay to destroy a population or an environment for the sake of an experience.

The Diving companies do not feed these sharks they are migratory, and they travel from as far as Argentina to hunt the seals on a small island off the coast. Seals eat 30% of their body weight every day, so it is important that they do no become over populated, or there will be no fish left in the area. So, my understanding was that the sharks are already in the area. They then do what is called chumming—dump some fish oil and some scraps skin, etc. into the water to attract the sharks closer to the boat. They told us Great Whites are like cats and they like something to chase. They put a few fish heads on a rope and drag them through the water to bring them right up to the cage so you can see them. They do not let them eat it though.

We were all prepped, got our swimsuits on and headed out on the boat. It is about the size of a small yacht. It was a chilly morning.

Shark Cage Diving Boat

Once we could not see the shore anymore, we put down an anchor. Everyone goes up to the second level, which is the best view of the sharks. As one approaches all thirty of us run to one side, and I thought, the boat was going to go right over. The second level is the best view of the sharks because you could see them approaching.

“If you need to feed the fish do it on that side,” our guide says, pointing to the opposite side of the boat from the cage. “It’s perfectly natural, don’t be embarrassed. And do not pee in the wetsuits. I will know. Not only is it disgusting we will not see another shark all day.”

On that note, he called out for the first group to go in the cage. N wanted to be the first in the water, I was less certain, but I regret not being eager now as they that group had one of the best sightings, and I was not yet seasick.

We went in next. The cage is attached to the side of the boat and I was relieved that it had a lid. As I lowered myself down into the water it was so cold it took my breath away. I was glad for the little wetsuit booties, but my head and hands were not covered. Despite the wetsuit, my teeth were soon chattering. You just have goggles on, no snorkel. There are two bars inside the cage for your hands and feet. You float there until the guide gives the signal.

“DOWN, DOWN, DOWN!”

 

You plunge under the water and hold your breath to watch the Great White shark swim past. I could not believe how fast they were. Suddenly it was just there. I never saw them coming. They are gone before you run out of breath. 

We were there in the offseason meaning that the water was very murky and you could only see a couple meters away. They would lure the sharks in close to the boat so that sometimes they would even bang against the cage. It was such an adrenalin rush.

N went in the high season (May/June 2011) the first time and said there were more sharks in the water, and you could see them approaching from further away. 

I was very surprised that the sharks did not seem that scary under the water though. I expected them to be terrifying, and teeth barred, like in all the photos you see, but I never saw the shark open its mouth, and N only did once at the very end. They just swim by just like big fish. They do not seem so ferocious with their mouths closed. Still to be so close to a wild animal of that size is awe-inspiring. It was very cool.

I love being out on the water. I have never been seasick in the past but after about an hour I began to feel quite woozy and did vomit. There were about three others who also got sick. I do not think I would recommend it if you get motion sickness easily. It is a long time out on the rough water, and I think staring into the sea waiting did not help.

By the end, when I was not leaving the opposite side of the boat for fear I would get sick. N got some fantastic shots of a shark coming up out of the water. (*note: my computer just flagged me that I have overused the word "amazing" in this document lol!)

The sharks we saw ranged from 2-4 meters. They have seen a shark up to 6 meters in that area.