good bye india

Saturday April 14

We’re flying home (technically tomorrow morning- as our flight is at 5am). 

It does not feel real but our time in India has come to close. 

Thanks to flying West and the time change we will be in Boston by tomorrow. 

We spent the day packing and then to kill time went to the mall. 

I know that it sounds very lame to spend a day at the mall when we’re in an exotic city but we thought it was a part of the Mumbai culture.  Plus we saw all the “monuments” when we came the first time and are just a bit tuckered out at this point. 

It was a strange sort of transition back to home.  This mall was super high-end and nice.  It was sort of strange after what we’ve been used to for so long.  Things were the same price at home and the mall was filled with all the designer shops that my empty pockets steer clear of at home.  It wasn’t really what we were expecting at all but seeing as it was filled with western food we enjoyed our 8 hour day at the mall just fine. 

We went to our first Bollywood movie.  It was all in Hindi.  We basically just went for the experience.  There were a couple of kind of interesting things for us.  One being the national anthem playing while an animated India flag fluttered on the screen, prior to the movie starting.  We felt really badly when we didn’t initially realize what it was and sat through the beginning of it.  We had a hard time figuring out what the movie was about and missed out on a lot of the humour.  Although the parts that the crowd really roared over was the really physical comedy like a snake biting a mans crotch.  So that we could catch but didn’t find that amusing.  Generally I concluded that the addition of arranged marriage gives writers a lot to work with. 

my cave man

Wednesday April 10 & 11

N loves caves.  I am not so much a fan of small dark spaces but I indulge him by trekking into caves and old forts and he indulges me by only going to half as many as he would choose.  And that is why we made the 8hr train journey over to Aurangabad to see the World Heritage Site, the Ellora Caves. 

They are actually quite a bit more impressive that I had expected.  I really enjoyed the trip.  Which was quite a pleasant surprise.  I was picturing dark, dingy, smelly, urine and bat filled crags in and escarpment.  As it was so far off the beaten track I anticipated a lot of hassle getting transportation and eatable food. 

The nightmare I had created in my mind couldn’t have been further from the reality.  The caves had plenty of natural light and beautiful sculptures.  In many ways I felt more like it was a day at the art gallery (which is my kind of day!) than one spent hiking through caves.  I don’t feel like caves is a very good description of them but that is what they are called. They are not natural caves rather religious shrines cut into the rock face.  They are similar to the Elephanta Caves we visited in Mumbai but far more extensive and impressive.  There are 34 caves total. Caves 1-12 are Buddhist (AD 600-800), 17-29 are Hindu (AD 600-900) and 30-34 are Jain (AD 800-1000). 

The Hindu caves were by far the best in my opinion.  They had the most detailed carves and interesting designs as a whole. I won’t got into too much detail about them because they are really the kind of thing you just have to see to be impressed by.  Photos and descriptions do them little justice. 

Ellora Caves - Buddhist Section Cave 10

I will just say a little bit about the particularly interesting ones because I’m always long winded and can’t help myself from sharing.  Cave 10 of the Buddhist ones really stood out as stunning with a ribbed roof and a gigantic Buddha in the central of the large assembly hall. I was quite awe struck that all this work had been done by hand with hammer and chisel.  Having tried my own efforts at sculpting, small pieces of soapstone in art classes, I have an extremely high respect for the 7000 labourers who worked over 150 years to created the Kailasa Temple (Cave 16).  This Hindu shrine built in AD 760 is the worlds largest monolithic sculpture (created out of a single piece of rock).  It is absolutely enormous!  It covers twice the area of the Parthenon in Athens and involved moving over 200 000 tonnes of rock (according to our LP)!  It’s very impressive. 

So I admired the incredible art work camera in hand.  While N had a fabulous day running up every long flight of stairs and climbing up or over everything.  It was worth the trip fore sure.  Although from the photos I’ve seen it would be worth going in the wet season when you can see the waterfalls.  The dry arid desert like appearance here was a stark contrast to what we had been enjoying in the south. 

Thursday April 12

Our trip to Mumbai was our last train journey in India.  I must admit I am glad.  Even though I have gotten used to the trains and don’t find them to be so bad any more it is not a restful journey and I am just ready to be finished with constant travel for a little while now.  These are our final two days in India.  It has not sunk in yet.  I am not feeling overly sentimental as the last few days have been riddled with irritating travel experiences; including a crow relieving himself on me, this morning. 

I don’t think the experience of transitioning back into our “normal” lives at home is going to be easy and I am not overly looking forward to that but I am looking forward to ease of our own country and culture.  There is something so comforting about the familiar. 

N and I have spent the large majority of our first year of marriage abroad, with only four brief months in our own city.  They were by far the most difficult months we have had together.  Even though we will have our first wedding anniversary shortly after we return I think it is going to feel like the beginning for us all over again as we try and figure out how we do things day to day in the same city every day. 

For now though we are in busy Mumbai and should leave the sanctuary of this McDonalds to go out and enjoy our last days in this country, now that everything is open and alive.  We arrived in the wee hours of the morning (5am) and our hotel won’t take us in until noon.  After wandering the empty streets of the city for a few hours we found the familiar golden arches always welcoming customers earlier and later than anyone else.  It’s pretty sad when McDonalds and Coca Cola are the things you can count on in life but the sad truth is for the weary traveler, we are, they truly are. 

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smooth sailing

Easter Monday April 9 2011

Yesterday (Sunday) N and I went paragliding!  It was so awesome!  It’s one of those things that has been on my bucket list.  I realized after we did it that it’s not really that crazy of a thing to do but for me I had to overcome a fairly big fear to willingly run off the edge of a cliff.  We had to hike up this fairly big hill.  It took about half an hour to get up.  Between having done nothing even remotely physically exerting in the last six months and the heat the hike nearly did me in.  A little too much curry for this girl I think.  My head was just spinning about half way up and I thought I would vomit. 

Not to mention there was a very friendly stray dog accompanying us and so not only was I actively overcoming my fear of heights but also my fear of big dogs.  The stays in the rest of India keep their distance from people.  I think most of them have been treated rough when they were puppies so they mind to themselves but the dogs here get fed under the tables at restaurants, pet and loved far too much if you ask me.  They have no social boundaries and are always much too close to me. 

Goa is gorgeous.  It’s not quite as lush as Kerala but it has lovely beaches.  The view from the hill top was quite spectacular.  It got even better from the para-glider! 

The guy taking us up from Nepal.  He does this up in the Himalayas during the summer and down in Goa during the winter, which is tourist season there.  He was a really nice friendly guy.  For those like me who don’t know much about it it’s basically like a big parachute like sail attached to a small fabric chair that you’re sort of strapped into.  You can go alone obviously but in our case there were two chairs hooked up and he was sitting behind me with his knees tucked at my side.  He guides the gliders with two handles. 

Para-sailing in Goa

The take off is quite rough and was mildly terrifying.  N went first.  I was supposed to help by holding on to them an anchoring them as the sail/parachute-thing lifted up into the air because it pulls them back.  And then I had to help push from behind as they ran off the edge of the cliff.  I was trying to video this as it happened which after the fact I realized was really stupid.  I was not able to push hard enough  and their first take off swerved into the bush.  N’s legs got cut up a bit.  My first attempt to get in the air was not as bad but my legs got twisted in the harness and we nearly toppled over. 

Once you’re up thought it’s very calm.  You are just sailing through the air.  I went para-sailing in Mexico a few years ago and that was quite rough feeling because you’re being pulled against the wind but paragliding you gently ride the currents.  We got quite high.  You have to stay over the cliffs though because as soon as you go very far over the ocean or the beach you loose height quite quickly.  That’s why it’s so good in the mountains.  I guess its’ the hot hair currents rising that lift the glider so nicely.  The view was spectacular and overall it was just such an amazing feeling to fly through the air like that.  We were both super glad we went.  It was very cool. 

We leave tonight for the Ellora Caves.  So we’re just relaxing and packing.  It’s been so lovely to have this time here to just enjoy the beach and unwind.  Although sadly I’m still as pasty as ever.  I was trying so hard to avoid being sunburned and got fried anyways only to end up just as pale as when I arrived.  N looks nice and dark.  I’m not sure how he managed a lovely golden brown since we go everywhere together.  He’s nice to look at though.  While my epidermis very loyally matches our Canadian flag: red and white. 

Dad runs the Boston Marathon exactly a week today!  I can hardly believe we’ll be back with family so soon! 

beach bums

Saturday April 7, 2012

It’s easy to loose track of the days here.  When I realized yesterday was Good Friday it was sort of a strange thought. Life, here, feels independent of festivals and markers.  It’s strange how a holiday destination is like that.  It’s like real life doesn’t happen in Goa.  To a large extent it’s true.  Even the people who work here do not live here.  Most of the waiters in the restaurants are from Northern India or Nepal.  The shop keepers selling every kind of item that tourists might like are from Kashmere where all the beautiful fabrics come from.  We’re here at the end of the season.  In a few weeks the temperature will be in the high 40s and the tourists and staff who have lived here for the last six months will all go back to their real lives.  It’s interesting to be here as things are wrapping up while we are wrapping up our trip.  There is that sort of sentimentality and relief similar to what I have always experience at the end of the school term.   The feeling like you wish it wouldn’t end because you never thought it would and you’re enjoying yourself so much but like you can’t wait to escape it.  The difference between this and the end of school is that I am leaving vacation to go to work instead of the other way around.  I’m not looking forward to going back to many things about life: like a full time job, responsibilities and having to cook and clean for myself.  At the same time I do really look forward to being back where things, especially food, are normal for me.  Most of all I can’t wait to be reunited with family and friends though without the internet connection dictating the duration of our conversation.  To see the people I love face to face again is a thought so wonderful I can hardly express it.  Only two more weeks and we will be home! 

I’m really sad to not be home for Easter.  It’s harder for me to miss being at home for this than it was for Christmas, though for very different reasons.  Easter has not been robbed of it’s true religion for the sake of those who are uncomfortable with its reality in the same way that Easter has.  Those who do not wish to believe in Christianity simply do not celebrate it.  Those who do accept the truth get to enjoy it in all its reality.  I love the way that our church celebrates Christ sacrifice and resurrection.  Every year anyone who can pull themselves out of bed meets on the shore of South Cooking Lake. We sing, read the passion story and watch the sun rise.  It’s very powerful.  That community of believers is something I’ve dearly missed.  I was surprised and delighted that we were able to have that same sort of family feel amongst fellow believers at MM but it’s not the same as people who have known you most of your life. 

I love Goa.  N and I both feel like Aramabol Beach (where we were in Nov and are again now) is the perfect vacation for us.  We have a little, ocean view, beach hut.  It’s literally made out of woven grass but it has power and running water in it which is lovely.  There is quite a hippy party scene here but it’s easy to avoid if you’re not interested.  Although if N goes walking anywhere alone he does get offered, “hash, crack, anything for you, you like sir?”   We found a quieter location this time after being on kind of a noisy part of the beach last time.  There are tons of beach front restaurants all along the beach.   At night the tables are all lit with candles it’s very romantic.  Two can dine on a delicious meal for $6-10.00.  It’s great too because Goa doesn’t just serve Indian food all the restaurants have pizza, pasta and a variety of other tasty international food. 

The shops are very geared towards tourists.  Thankfully they sold alo vera!  Even lathered in sunscreen on hour walking down the beach and the backs of my knees look like rip strawberries.  Even more special I have a farmers tan from all our modest days at MM.  The first chance I got in Kerala I put on a tank top, forgetting how long we’d be out I didn’t put on sun screen so burned my shoulders really bad.  Then being here I put sunscreen over the burned shoulders so now I just have this white strip at the top of my arm, above the farmers tan and below the peeling shoulders.  One word sums up this look-sexy!  So unfortunately thanks to the pasty gene that my pasty British heritage bestowed onto me I have been enjoying the beach from the comfort of our beach hut. 

We are hoping to either rent a scooter or go paragliding in our last two days.  Paragliding seems less scary, in theory, because you have a person who knows what they’re doing with you.  N and I trying to manage a scooter down sketchy Indian roads is a bit of a disaster in my imagination.  Poor husband though is getting a bit worn out of our only amusement being shopping these past few days.  So I feel it is my duty to be brave for the sake of fun.  I always regret it when I don’t join him in these activities.  I’m still mad I chickened out of shark-cage-diving, in South Africa. 

So clearly there is nothing overly exciting to report as our trip winds to a slow close.

the supreme ordinary

Monday April 2

We woke up early to take a tour out to see the elephant training centre.  This is owned by the government of Kerala Forestry Department but tourist and go and check it out.  They train the elephants for special festivals and ceremonies.  I really wish we’d timed our visit to see an elephant parade with them all done up. 

The point of going to the center is to see elephants get washed and potentially get to ride one.  Two little babies both under two years old were being washed.  They were pretty cute flopping around in the water.  And considering how young they were relatively obedient to the trainers.  The trainer tells them when to go into the water, sit down and roll over.  It’s very amusing to watch them flop over on their sides and stick their little trunks out to breath.  The trainer scrubs them all over with a coconut husk.  I thought this seem quite rough and a bit cruel until we got to touch one. For a small mandatory “tip” we got to go up and pet them.  It was well worth it!  Their skin is so rough and hard.  I was very nervous to get to close with them because like all babies they were kinds of jumpy and unpredictable.

The funniest part was when the trainer gave himself a little soap up, he’s in there anyways-why not, and the elephant decided to help him scrub, rubbing the trainers back with his trunk.  I imagine that trunk does quite the job exfoliating.  The trainer did not seem impressed. 

Unfortunately the person who takes tourists on rides was on holidays so we were unable to go.

And then we went on to some random Water Falls.  Neither of us had heard of them and I still don’t know the name of them.  My expectations and even desire to go was quite low.  It turned out to be a great stop.  They were fantastic!  And the whole area around them but breathtaking lush jungles.  We spent the whole day splashing around in the shallow water near the top and hiking up and down stairs to try and find the best view.  I got a nasty sunburn, due to my own stupidity and not putting on enough sun screen.  It was a scorching hot day.  It was really wonderful.  This area is just absolutely beautiful.  We keep disappointedly saying to one another that we just can’t capture it in photos.  It’s so stunning.  The lush jungles just make you want to stay in this paradise forever. 

As we were walking along the narrow path to the falls all alone I had this thought of just how unreal it all felt.  I wondered to myself if this is what heaven might be like.  I mean I have no clue what God has in store for us in the next life but if things here are good I just think what’s to come is going to be awesome.  Not just awesome but like take your breath away unbelievable.  There are just those times like a really intense thunderstorm or when I drive through the mountains or stand at the foot of a powerful waterfall that it just hits me how great is our God!  And that thought just gets me so excited to seem more of here creation.  People who don’t know God say a lot of things about Him, but one thing God can never be accused of is being boring.  When I travel around at the world God has made I am continually thrilled and stupefied by how incredible and diverse each new place is.  You don’t have to go further than just outside your own front door to see that, if you’re willing to.  The trouble is for myself I have to get out of what I’m used to really notice.  I get used to the amazing thing about nature and people.  I accept the supreme as ordinary.  When you go somewhere else the wrinkles on an old woman’s face can suddenly become superb.  You allow yourself to be astonished by what to locals here is usual.  And I love that.  I want to be a traveler in my own country, in my own home.  I just feel like seeing things that way every day would be really powerful! 

In the evening we did a little bit of shopping and wandered around on the waters edge.  There is a nice brick walk way there. 

Tuesday April 3

Happy 23 Birthday to my very best friend!  Can’t wait to see you again and celebrate with you! 

Set on getting to ride the elephants we woke up early again and went back to the elephant training camp.  Since we regrettably bailed on the camel tour at the beginning I really wanted to get to ride the elephant.  So we watched them do the bathing again.  Today they had an adult female that was being washed as well.  I was shocked by her size!  We had been up very close to elephants in Africa, which as quite a bit bigger but always in a large vehicle. This was the first time I had stood next to a full grown elephant.  She was just enormous!  It was almost unbelievable to me.  I was glad she was so well trained and calm it was scary enough just to be near her. 

We got to go on the elephant ride!  It worked out to about ¢50 per person in a group of four and here were seven of us including some other nice travelers we met.  It was kind of a let down in that it was only like a 50m walk down the road and back but I was so nervous about it I did not mind at all how short it was.  Elephants do not have a smooth gate and I was certain that the wicker saddle was going to slip right off his back.  I was really glad we did it in the end but super scared something was going to go terribly wrong the whole time we were up there. 

Boat ride through cannels in Kerala

Late afternoon we set off for a boat ride the cannels of Kerala.  These cannels are man-made.  They were built for transportation and irrigation.  The boat itself was quite cute.  The one we took seated about a dozen people.  It had a wicker-type cover with nice big windows and comfortable wicker chairs.  Every seat was a window seat.  There was a poler pushing us along, so it was quite a slow pace. 

It was so serene that even to speak I felt we were disturbing the ambiance.  It almost didn’t feel real it was just so perfect.  I’ve never seen plant life like this before.  I wish I even knew how to describe it. The leaves were every shape, shade, size and texture.  The plants seemed to go about two feet into the water from the edge and grow like a wall about ten feet up.  You would have needed a chain saw to pass through any section of it that did not already have a path. There were lots of other boats and many people along the shores. 

The long slow three hour boat rides of life are good reminders to me that I have not reached my goals of becoming more patient or more relaxed.  At one point I said to myself, if only I had no where to be and could just enjoy this, it would be so amazing but I’m so busy.  And then realized that I did have no where to be, wasn’t busy and should just enjoy all the amazing around.  Reading something silly like that when your busy sounds ridiculous how can you not let go and enjoy it when you can.  I think many people like me though can relate to the fact that we decide it is better to be busy and consumed with valuable to-dos until we forget how to live without them.  I’m working on.  I did love the boat ride.  Sitting on boats is just generally something I find wonderful so I try never to miss the chance to soak in its goodness.  We stopped half way to visit a village and see how they make ropes out of coconut hair.  It was so cool!  The whole boat was held together with it, it’s super strong.  And the ladies who make it go so fast!  I was super impressed. 

Tomorrow we will catch a train to Goa at 2pm.  We’ll train through the night and arrive early in the morning.  Pre-sunburn I was really pumped about some tan time on the beach.  I’m feeling less enthusiastic about it now but these two weeks to just unwind and debrief with one another a little bit after our time at the mission is really nice.