Friday, April 13, 2012

my cave man


Wednesday April 10 & 11
N loves caves.  I am not so much a fan of small dark spaces but I indulge him by trekking into caves and old forts and he indulges me by only going to half as many as he would choose.  And that is why we made the 8hr train journey over to Aurangabad to see the World Heritage Site, the Ellora Caves. 

They are actually quite a bit more impressive that I had expected.  I really enjoyed the trip.  Which was quite a pleasant surprise.  I was picturing dark, dingy, smelly, urine and bat filled crags in and escarpment.  As it was so far off the beaten track I anticipated a lot of hassle getting transportation and eatable food. 

The nightmare I had created in my mind couldn’t have been further from the reality.  The caves had plenty of natural light and beautiful sculptures.  In many ways I felt more like it was a day at the art gallery (which is my kind of day!) than one spent hiking through caves.  I don’t feel like caves is a very good description of them but that is what they are called. They are not natural caves rather religious shrines cut into the rock face.  They are similar to the Elephanta Caves we visited in Mumbai but far more extensive and impressive.  There are 34 caves total. Caves 1-12 are Buddhist (AD 600-800), 17-29 are Hindu (AD 600-900) and 30-34 are Jain (AD 800-1000). 

The Hindu caves were by far the best in my opinion.  They had the most detailed carves and interesting designs as a whole. I won’t got into too much detail about them because they are really the kind of thing you just have to see to be impressed by.  Photos and descriptions do them little justice. 
Ellora Caves - Buddhist Section Cave 10
I will just say a little bit about the particularly interesting ones because I’m always long winded and can’t help myself from sharing.  Cave 10 of the Buddhist ones really stood out as stunning with a ribbed roof and a gigantic Buddha in the central of the large assembly hall. I was quite awe struck that all this work had been done by hand with hammer and chisel.  Having tried my own efforts at sculpting, small pieces of soapstone in art classes, I have an extremely high respect for the 7000 labourers who worked over 150 years to created the Kailasa Temple (Cave 16).  This Hindu shrine built in AD 760 is the worlds largest monolithic sculpture (created out of a single piece of rock).  It is absolutely enormous!  It covers twice the area of the Parthenon in Athens and involved moving over 200 000 tonnes of rock (according to our LP)!  It’s very impressive. 

So I admired the incredible art work camera in hand.  While N had a fabulous day running up every long flight of stairs and climbing up or over everything.  It was worth the trip fore sure.  Although from the photos I’ve seen it would be worth going in the wet season when you can see the waterfalls.  The dry arid desert like appearance here was a stark contrast to what we had been enjoying in the south. 

Thursday April 12
Our trip to Mumbai was our last train journey in India.  I must admit I am glad.  Even though I have gotten used to the trains and don’t find them to be so bad any more it is not a restful journey and I am just ready to be finished with constant travel for a little while now.  These are our final two days in India.  It has not sunk in yet.  I am not feeling overly sentimental as the last few days have been riddled with irritating travel experiences; including a crow relieving himself on me, this morning. 

I don’t think the experience of transitioning back into our “normal” lives at home is going to be easy and I am not overly looking forward to that but I am looking forward to ease of our own country and culture.  There is something so comforting about the familiar. 

N and I have spent the large majority of our first year of marriage abroad, with only four brief months in our own city.  They were by far the most difficult months we have had together.  Even though we will have our first wedding anniversary shortly after we return I think it is going to feel like the beginning for us all over again as we try and figure out how we do things day to day in the same city every day. 

For now though we are in busy Mumbai and should leave the sanctuary of this McDonalds to go out and enjoy our last days in this country, now that everything is open and alive.  We arrived in the wee hours of the morning (5am) and our hotel won’t take us in until noon.  After wandering the empty streets of the city for a few hours we found the familiar golden arches always welcoming customers earlier and later than anyone else.  It’s pretty sad when McDonalds and Coca Cola are the things you can count on in life but the sad truth is for the weary traveler, we are, they truly are. 

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